Watch Maintenance: Servicing, Winding & Longevity

Why Maintenance Protects Both Watch and Value

A mechanical watch is a miniature machine with dozens of moving parts running continuously, lubricated by oils that degrade over time. Left unserviced, those oils dry and turn abrasive, metal grinds against metal, and a repair that would have been routine becomes expensive — or impossible if parts are no longer available. Maintenance is not optional fussiness; it is the difference between a watch that runs for generations and one that quietly destroys itself.

For collectors, maintenance also protects value. A watch with a documented service history sells more readily and for more money, because the buyer inherits confidence rather than an unknown. Neglect works the other way: a beautiful watch that has not run in years is a gamble a careful buyer will discount heavily. Caring for a watch properly is part of stewardship, and stewardship is what collecting is really about.

Servicing: What It Involves and How Often

A full service disassembles the movement, cleans every part, replaces worn components and gaskets, re-lubricates with fresh oils, reassembles, regulates for accuracy, and tests water resistance. It is skilled, time-consuming work, which is why it costs what it does. As a general rule, a mechanical watch benefits from a service every four to seven years, though the right interval depends on the movement, how hard the watch is worn, and the maker’s guidance.

Choosing who services your watch

• Manufacturer service guarantees correct parts and keeps provenance clean — ideal for high-value and modern pieces.
• Reputable independent watchmakers can be excellent and more affordable — vital for vintage, where a sympathetic hand matters.
• Always keep the service documentation — it supports resale and records what was done.
• Insist original parts are returned if any are replaced, especially on vintage watches.

For vintage watches, a watchmaker who understands the value of originality is priceless. A well-meaning full ‘restoration’ that polishes the case and swaps the dial can wipe out value you can never recover.

Winding, Setting, and Daily Handling

Good habits between services matter as much as the services themselves. Wind a manual watch gently until you feel resistance, then stop — forcing it strains the mainspring. Set the time carefully, and be cautious with date and calendar functions: on most watches you should avoid changing the date during the hours around midnight, when the change mechanism is engaged and can be damaged. When in doubt, consult the maker’s instructions for your specific movement.

Water resistance is widely misunderstood. The rating printed on a watch describes conditions when the gaskets are fresh and the crown is fully closed — not a permanent guarantee. Gaskets age, so water resistance should be tested at service. Never operate the crown or pushers underwater, and rinse a watch in fresh water after contact with salt or chlorine. Treat any watch with an unknown gasket history as not water resistant until proven otherwise.

Storage That Preserves a Collection

When a watch is not being worn, store it somewhere dry, stable, and away from extremes of heat, humidity, and magnetism — magnetic fields from speakers, laptops, and phone cases can affect timekeeping, though modern anti-magnetic movements resist this. Keep the original box and papers together with the watch; completeness is value. For automatic watches with complex calendars, a watch winder can spare you the fiddle of resetting, though many collectors happily wind by hand and rotate what they wear.

The overarching principle is simple: a watch is happiest when it is used, serviced, and stored with care. Wear your watches, keep them running, service them on schedule, document everything, and you will not only enjoy them — you will hand them on in the condition that keeps a collection’s value intact.